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Have you ever wondered what it means when a gel is thixotropic, or how the acidity of the base affects the natural nail?
At BELLU, we want you to have complete control while working and know exactly what each product enables. To make it easier for you to choose and shop in our online store, we have added clear descriptions of the properties for each product (bases, gels, gel polish, and top coats).
In this guide, we will explain all the terms in a simple and understandable way, so you will always choose the perfect product for your needs and your clients' nails!
1. Pigmentation (Coverage)
Pigmentation determines how much color pigment the product contains or how strongly it covers the natural nail or base.
| Pigmentation level | What does it mean? | When to use it? |
|---|---|---|
| Transparent (0%) | Completely colorless, allowing for a clean, transparent look. | Base layers, protection of the natural nail, building. |
| Sheer (30–50%) | A soft, slightly tinted shade that still lets light through. | Natural "nude" look, base for French manicure. |
| Milky (60–80%) | Soft, "milky" tint without harsh edges. | Popular milky effect, baby boomer, elegant soft look. |
| Buildable (80–90%) | Coverage is controlled by the thickness or number of layers. | Adaptable look from soft to almost full coverage. |
| Full coverage (100%) | Complete coverage.. | Intense colors, covering imperfections. |
2. Consistency (Thickness and working with the material)
Consistency describes the thickness of the material and how the product behaves when applied with a brush. The consistency of gels and bases varies:
Bases, Gel Polish, and Top Coats
- Thin: Spreads quickly, suitable for very fast work and thin applications.
- Medium: The most versatile thickness, allowing for easy application without dripping into the cuticles.
- Thick: A more stable texture, ideal for beginners or for leveling imperfections.
Building Gels
- Self-leveling gel: The product smooths itself beautifully on the nail surface, reducing the need for subsequent filing.
- Thixotropic gel ("Smart Memory"): A special gel that changes its thickness. When you move it with the brush, it becomes soft and pliable, and when you remove the brush, it rests and does not drip into the cuticle area. Perfect for precise work!
- Thick (Jelly) gel: A creamy, gelatinous structure that holds its shape and does not move until you shape it.
- Acryl-Poly gel: A hybrid between acrylic and gel. An extremely stable material that is shaped with the help of liquid and does not harden until you cure it under an LED lamp.
-
Modeling: Standard structure for classic modeling and building the nail shape.
3. Acidity (pH value)
The acidity of the product determines how strong the adhesion to the natural nail is and how gentle the base is on the nail plate.
- Acid-free (pH 5.5 – 6.5): An extremely gentle formulation that matches the natural pH of the nail. An excellent choice for sensitive or damaged nails.
- Medium acidity (pH 4.0 – 5.0): The perfect balance between good adhesion and nail friendliness.
- High acidity (below pH 4.0): Very strong adhesion, suitable for problematic nails where materials tend to lift.
4. Flexibility, Elasticity, and Hardness
These three terms describe how the product behaves after curing under an LED lamp:
- Flexibility: Indicates how much the material adapts to the bending of the natural nail after curing (High / Medium / Low / Not flexible).
- Elasticity: Indicates whether the material returns to its original shape after pressure or bending without cracking and changing shape (Not elastic / Low / Medium / High).
- Hardness: Indicates how hard and resistant to mechanical damage the cured material is (Soft / Medium / Hard).
Useful tip: For soft and thin natural nails, more flexible and elastic bases or flexible and elastic biabs work best. For long nails or extensions, always choose harder biabs or gels that provide strong support to the nail and combine them with more flexible bases (e.g.: rubber base in a thin layer).
5. Application (Method of use)
This label tells you what type of application each product is primarily intended for:
- 1–2 layers: Typical for gel polish – a thin application in one or two layers for perfect color.
- Thin layer: Thin preparatory layers or basic adhesion layers (bonding).
- Thin layer or building: Versatile products that you can apply thinly or use to create an apex (stress point).
- Building: Products intended for building, extending, or strengthening the nail structure.
Still not sure which product is right for you or your clients? The BELLU team is always available to advise you. Write to us or visit us, and we will gladly help you find the perfect products for your salon!
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